Disc brake maintenance and troubleshooting
Good braking matters for a pleasant ride, but above all for your safety. This guide covers service intervals, the differences between brake systems, and quick fixes for common problems.
1. Service and replacement intervals
Section titled “1. Service and replacement intervals”How long brake pads and rotors last depends heavily on where and how you ride and how you brake.
Brake pads
Section titled “Brake pads”Check your brake pads for wear regularly. Replacing them in time prevents permanent damage to the brake rotors.
- Mountain or steep downhill riding: about 500–1,500 km
- City or mixed commuting: about 1,500–3,000 km
- Light touring or casual riding: up to 3,000–5,000 km
Brake rotors
Section titled “Brake rotors”Rotors last much longer than pads, but measure their thickness from time to time to make sure they are still within safe limits.
- Normal city or touring use: up to 10,000–20,000 km
- Extreme conditions: can wear out in less than 2,000 km
2. Types of brake system
Section titled “2. Types of brake system”Hydraulic disc brakes
Section titled “Hydraulic disc brakes”If a hydraulic brake loses braking power, the cause is usually one of three things:
- Worn brake pads
- Worn brake rotor
- Air in the system: if the lever pulls all the way to the handlebar or feels spongy, air has got into the hydraulic system. The brake then needs to be bled according to the brake maker’s instructions. If you have not done this before, have it done by us or a mechanic.
Mechanical (cable-operated) disc brakes
Section titled “Mechanical (cable-operated) disc brakes”On mechanical brakes, reduced braking power can come from pad and rotor wear or from brake cable stretch.
Check:
- the cable tension
- the position of the cable clamp bolt
- the pad adjustment screws and the pad alignment
3. Common problems and fixes
Section titled “3. Common problems and fixes”| Problem | Possible cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Long lever travel, or a hydraulic lever that feels soft or sinks | Transport position: the bike was carried on its side or upside down (for example in a car), so air moved in the brake system. | Pull and release the brake lever quickly several times until the pressure builds up and the lever feels firm again. If it does not, do not ride: the brake may need bleeding. |
| Worn brake pads: the pads are worn, so the pistons travel too far. | Check the brake pads. Replace worn pads, or adjust the clearance. | |
| The rotor squeaks or rubs as the wheel turns | Bent or warped rotor (for example from an impact or overheating). | Straighten the rotor gently, in small steps, with a rotor truing tool. Let the rotor cool down first and do not touch the braking surface with your fingers. If you are unsure, have it straightened or replaced by a mechanic. |
| The brakes squeal loudly when braking | The rotor or pads are contaminated (dirt, oil), or the pad surface has become glazed from light city braking. | 1. Clean the rotor thoroughly with a dedicated brake cleaner. 2. Resurface the pads: either ride down a safe slope while braking steadily to wear off the glazed layer, or remove the pads and lightly sand the friction surface on fine sandpaper (for example 240 grit) laid on a flat surface, until it looks matte again. Pads contaminated with oil usually have to be replaced. |
If you cannot restore proper braking with the steps above, contact us or take the bike to a bicycle workshop.
After transporting my bike in a car, the brake lever goes almost to the handlebar. What should I do?
If the bike was carried on its side or upside down, air in a hydraulic brake can move toward the caliper. Pull and release the brake lever quickly several times until it feels firm again. If the lever stays soft or still reaches the handlebar, do not ride; the brake may need bleeding.